From subfloor assessment to final installation, a step-by-step buying guide

Buying a new floor is a significant investment in a room or a whole home. Unlike paint or furniture, flooring is difficult and expensive to change once installed. Getting the decision right the first time depends on understanding a few practical fundamentals before you start looking at samples.

This guide covers the key factors that affect which flooring products will work in your space, what the main product categories offer, and how to approach the buying process without ending up with something that looks good in the showroom but causes problems at home.

Start With the Subfloor

The subfloor is the structural surface your new floor will sit on top of, and its condition and type directly affect which products you can use and how they need to be installed. The two common subfloor types in UK homes are concrete (screed) and timber joists with floorboards or sheet material on top.

Concrete subfloors are common on ground floors and in modern flats. They can be compatible with underfloor heating, but they must be fully dry before any floor covering is installed. A concrete subfloor with residual moisture above 75 per cent relative humidity (measured using a hygrometer) will cause problems with wood and engineered boards. Allow adequate drying time and consider a moisture-tolerant adhesive or a damp-proof membrane underlay.

Timber subfloors have natural movement and some flex. This suits floating engineered wood installations well. Solid wood, nail-down engineered boards, and some adhesive products also work on timber subfloors. LVT generally performs best on a flat, stable surface, so minor unevenness in older timber floors may need to be addressed with a levelling compound before LVT is laid.

Understanding Product Categories

Engineered wood consists of a real hardwood top layer, called the wear layer, bonded onto a multi-ply plywood or HDF core. The wear layer is typically between 2.5mm and 6mm thick. Products with a thicker wear layer can be sanded and refinished more times over their lifespan. Species range from European oak to American walnut, with board widths from 90mm to 300mm or more.

Solid hardwood is exactly what it sounds like: a solid timber board from top to bottom, typically 18mm or 20mm thick. It is more sensitive to moisture and temperature change than engineered wood, but with proper acclimatisation and subfloor preparation, solid floors are extremely durable. Junckers is the leading manufacturer of pre-finished solid hardwood floors in the UK, particularly in sports, commercial and residential applications.

Luxury vinyl tile (LVT) has a rigid or semi-rigid core beneath a printed design layer topped with a wear layer. It is waterproof, dimensionally stable, and suitable for use over underfloor heating in most cases. It does not have the sound or feel of real wood, but the visual quality at the premium end is impressive. SPC (stone plastic composite) and WPC (wood plastic composite) are subcategories of LVT with different core constructions.

Installation Methods and Their Implications

Floating installation involves boards that click together but are not fixed to the subfloor. This method is quick, does not require adhesive, and allows the floor to expand and contract with seasonal humidity changes. However, floating floors can sound hollow underfoot and are not recommended over certain types of underfloor heating systems.

Glue-down installation uses a floor adhesive to bond boards directly to the subfloor. This produces a more stable, quieter result and is often required for underfloor heating compatibility. It is more labour-intensive and the floor cannot be removed easily without damaging the boards.

Secret nailing is used for solid wood and some engineered boards on timber subfloors. A nail gun is used to fix each board through its tongue at an angle, hiding the fixings from view. This is a traditional method that works well on appropriate subfloors.

Budgeting Realistically

Floor prices vary enormously. Budget engineered boards start at around £20 to £30 per square metre. Mid-range options from quality European manufacturers typically run from £45 to £80 per square metre. Premium wide-plank boards with thick wear layers and specialist finishes can reach £120 or more per square metre.

Do not calculate your budget based on product cost alone. Add the cost of appropriate underlay or adhesive, any subfloor preparation work, installation labour (typically £15 to £25 per square metre for a straightforward job), and finishing accessories such as beading, threshold strips and stair nosings.

• Measure accurately and add 10 per cent for cuts and waste
• Order a little more than you need for future repairs
• Allow drying time if a levelling compound has been applied
• Acclimatise wood products in the room for at least 48 hours before fitting
• Confirm underfloor heating compatibility before purchasing

Questions Worth Asking Before You Order

Before committing to a product, find out whether it is suitable for your installation method and subfloor type. Ask about the warranty terms and what they require in terms of approved adhesives, underlay and installation methods. Find out whether the product is in stock or on order, and what the lead time is. Ask whether the showroom can supply matching accessories including beading, thresholds and stair nosings in the same colour and species.

Flooring is one of the more permanent decisions you will make in your home. Taking time to ask the right questions, compare samples properly, and understand the full cost of the project is time well spent.